VIEUX TELEGRAPHE Chateauneuf-du-Pape

One of the great estates of this, France’s first AOC, it has been owned since 1891 by the Brunier family, and is now in the able and experienced hands of the fifth and sixth generations. The domaine comprises 56 hectares on the famous ‘Galets Roulés’ of the Plateau de Crau, of which 50 ha are planted to Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, with a little Cinsault and Clairette with an average age of 70 years, with the balance planted to Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Bourboulenc for the white cuvée. The red has become increasingly elegant over the last decade, with striking finesse and complexity as it develops in bottle, the white is floral and complex, and ages most gracefully in favourable vintages. Both wines easily commend themselves to any serious cellar. Le Télégramme is the second wine, a Grenache dominated blend from the younger parcels on ‘Le Crau’ and older parcels not located on ‘Le Crau’ and thus not incorporated in the main cuvée, the average vine age being 40 years. Telegramme is deliberately crafted in a more forward, early-maturing style, so hand-picking, double sorting to ensure that only the healthiest fruit goes into the vat, destemming to remove harsh tannins, then a temperature controlled fermentation over 25 days, followed by 14 months maturation in a combination of vat and oak foudre. Supple and round, the excellent 2021 benefits from decanting, which brings out the characteristic pepper and dried fruit character which is so much the personality of fine Chateauneuf-du-Pape.